360w360 E.126 – Why Use Milk Paint?

Featured_MilkIn this episode of 360 with 360WoodWorking, the 360 guys talk about why you would want to use milk paint on your projects.

Join the guys twice each week for six lively minutes of discussion on everything from tools to techniques to wood selection (and more). Chuck & Glen, and sometimes a surprise guest, all have their own opinions. Sometimes they agree and sometimes they don’t, but the conversation is always information packed and lots of fun.

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5 thoughts on “360w360 E.126 – Why Use Milk Paint?

  1. Milk paint is a great finish for all the reasons you mentioned. There is one drawback that could come up under special circumstances: Most available paint strippers won’t touch it. In my experience, having refinished furniture for a long time in my past, the only way I got the finish off was sand it away. Ugh! Time consuming and boring. But if you want to get down to bare wood again as many people do, there’s grunt work to be done.
    The old-time method of dipping a piece into a tank of warm caustic soda solution I believe would work, but who still does that? It’s nasty stuff which usually makes a mess of the wood and loosens the old joints.
    Overall this would not be a reason to put me off using milk paint, but I think we should know all the details, even those which probably wouldn’t matter very much to most of us.

    1. Ned,
      You make a good point. While I don’t think many users will be concerned on how to strip milk paint, there does seem to be a product available that claims to do the trick. And there are good reviews along with it. Try H. Behlen’s PDE paint remover. I have no experience with this product so …

      1. Just got word from the powers that be at The Real Milk Paint company. Their Powdered Milk Paint Remover is perfect for stripping milk paint.

  2. Glen,

    I had the same problem 30 years ago when I tried to strip an antique chest that had been over-painted with milk paint. Nothing seemed to touch it. My father was a chemical engineer who was seriously into antique furniture, so I asked for advice. He said to swab on a mix of household ammonia and water. I tried it; the ammonia reacted with the paint and it sheeted off. Turned out to be the stripping I’ve done.

    Very respectfully,

    1. Larry,
      Thanks for the comment. I was under the impression that ammonia would strip milk paint off, but that a lot of the original paint would still be loaded into the wood pores, which is a great reason to use milk paint. If an ammonia/water solution does the job sufficiently, that’s all we need because those two products are readily available.

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